“I don’t care if it’s the grand palace or your back garden, this is your special day and you will look your best” – Vinka Lucas

Vinka Dragica Lucas MNZM (née Ravlich / Ravlić; 1 January 1932 – 10 August 2020) was a renowned New Zealand fashion and bridalwear designer, business owner, and co-founder of New Zealand Bride magazine. Her contributions to the fashion industry in New Zealand spanned over five decades, leaving an indelible mark on the country’s bridal and evening wear scene.

Early Life and Career

Born in Kozica, Croatia (then part of Yugoslavia), Lucas learned traditional needlework and embroidery skills in her youth. She later studied cutting and design at the Academy of Dress & Design in Zagreb. In 1951, at the age of 15, Lucas immigrated to New Zealand, initially settling in Northland with her sister.

After moving to Auckland in 1955, Lucas worked in the fabric department of Price & Dempster department store. In 1959, she and her husband David Lucas purchased a fashion and dressmaking business in Hamilton, which they renamed Maree de Maru (“Marriage of the Brides” in Croatian).

Business Expansion and Achievements

Lucas’s career in the fashion industry flourished as she expanded her business:

• 1962: Opened a store in Auckland’s Customs Street
• 1966: Relocated to Queen Street, Auckland’s busiest thoroughfare
• Subsequent years: Opened four additional fashion stores on Queen Street, including Modern Bride, Buttons Galore, Stanton Silks, and Vinka Lucas After 5

In 1963, Lucas and her husband launched New Zealand Bride magazine, which grew from a booklet of bridal designs. Her success extended internationally in the 1980s when she opened salons in Jeddah, Saudi Arabia, and Kuwait.Notable achievements include:

• Showcasing a collection at the London Fashion Olympics in 1980
• Winning the international fashion competition run by the Association of Voralberger Embroiderers of Austria

Legacy and Recognition

Vinka Lucas’s impact on New Zealand’s fashion industry is significant:

• Her designs are part of museum collections, including the Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa.
• In 2017, a Vinka Lucas-designed dress was discovered in a charity shop and subsequently displayed at the Auckland Museum.
• Lucas was appointed a Member of the New Zealand Order of Merit (MNZM) in the 2019 New Year Honours for her services to the fashion industry and design.

After Lucas’s retirement in 2009 following a stroke, her daughter Anita Turner-Williams took over the business, continuing under the names Vinka Design and Vinka Brides. The company maintains its founding principles of outstanding New Zealand-made couture and an emphasis on bringing brides’ dreams to life.

Vinka Lucas passed away on August 10, 2020, at the age of 88, leaving behind a legacy that continues to influence New Zealand’s bridal and fashion industry. Her unique style, entrepreneurial spirit, and dedication to craftsmanship have cemented her place as a pioneer in New Zealand fashion history.

Restored Content from My Wedding Mag Archives

As part of preserving the rich history and contributions of Vinka Lukas to the New Zealand fashion industry, we are pleased to bring back this archived article. Originally published while Vinka Lukas was still alive, this piece offers a personal and historical account of her journey, achievements, and the legacy she left behind. We hope it provides valuable insights and inspiration for those interested in the story of this pioneering designer.

A Memorable Visit to Vinka Bridal

Originally By Gayle Dickson

On a bleak Auckland day, I headed into Vinka Bridal in the CBD for my first meeting with Anita Turner-Williams. What was I expecting? I’m really not sure, but it certainly wasn’t the down-to-earth yet vivaciously vibrant and forthrightly honest person that I spent the next two hours chatting to. Within minutes, I felt as though I’d known Anita much longer.

Unearthing the Past – A Treasure Trove of Memories

Before long, we were digging up old bridal magazines that her dad used to print, photos of her parents, clippings of garments that her mother created, and wading through a veritable treasure trove. It was a walk down a memory lane I’d never known existed, and which I felt simply had to be shared.

Vinka Lukas From Yugoslavia to New Zealand

Vinka Ravlich was born in Yugoslavia, learned the art of traditional embroidery skills from her mother, and trained at the Academy of Dress & Design in Zagreb. In 1951 she visited her sister who was living in Northland, and decided to stay – she was 15 at the time. When she met David Lucas, they were both working for a trading emporium in Queen Street, Auckland.

A Fashion Milestone Establishing Marée de Maru

From sewing her own clothes and making outfits for friends, to setting up one of New Zealand’s earliest designer boutiques, Marée de Maru in Hamilton, the Vinka name soon became entrenched in Kiwi fashion history. Yes, wedding dresses played a large role, but they certainly weren’t the sole focus for this busy couple.

Vinka and David’s Entrepreneurial Journey

While Vinka designed and sewed, the entrepreneur in David saw the couple setting up distribution channels, editing and producing magazines, launching the Vinka Lucas After Five Salon.

The Birth of New Zealand Bride Magazine

Not satisfied with just being a pioneering designer, Vinka and David’s wedding publications were, in reality, the birth of bridal mags in New Zealand. A booklet produced in 1963 soon turned into NZ Bride magazine. David’s roles were managing editor and art director, while Vinka organised shoots in her role as fashion director. A young Paula Ryan featured in her very first fashion editorials for NZ Bride.

Even in an era when many women sewed their own garments, Vinka succeeded. She developed a comprehensive range of patterns, available through mail order. Ladies were given details on the fabrics and trims needed to make the gown, and these, too, were available for purchase through a growing network of fabric stores developed by David and Vinka – United Bridal Salons. It honestly was a case of “no stone left unturned”.

The Heart of Auckland’s Textile Hub

Auckland’s textile hub in those days was the central CBD area, so it’s no surprise that Vinka and David chose Custom Street as their initial Auckland home before shifting to Queen Street. Maree de Maru which was launched in Hamilton, soon had a presence at 201 Queen Street, described by some as a wonderland and treasure trove. They also opened at 246 Queen Street with Modern Bride, which stocked simpler, less elaborate, yet still remarkably beautiful wedding gowns, was opened, as well as Buttons Galore where you could find just about any trimming or jewellery your outfit demanded. 246 Queen Street soon turned into a latter day version of the modern mall, also housing the likes of Stanton Silks and Vinka Lucas After Five, where society shopped for their cocktail and evening attire.

The Vinka Legacy – A Family Affair

Anita, who grew up in the workroom, tells of her mother’s focus and determination. “My mother’s business was everything to her. Every one of her clients went away with the memory of investing in a dress that meant a lot to them.”

Looking through the old photos, it became evident that Vinka lived and breathed clothes. In not one photo was she underdressed or snapped wearing anything but fabulous outfits.

Auctioning the Vinka Collection

In 2009, the family decided it was time to shed some cobwebs. The Vinka Collection was put up for auction at Webbs, creating a stir amongst fashionistas and collectors. The Collection contained the most incredible array of garments ever seen under one roof … everything from wedding gowns and flamboyant evening dresses, to glamourous cocktail wear, kaftans, hats and fascinators. There were even pieces designed for Miss New Zealand contestants.

Celebrating Vinka’s Unique Designs

Annie Webb, director of Webb’s Gallery said at the time of the auction: “New Zealand fashion tends to be sort of dark and moody and Vinka is about colour. Our sale room has just been ringing with laughter all the way through the viewing because the clothes are joyous.”

Vinka’s Fabric Excellence

Writing for thread.co.nz, Michelle Romaine noted: “Walking through the racks of garments, there was a distinct international influence. From the Spanish inspired flamenco-style gowns to the brightly coloured kaftan designs, Vinka has managed to combine global inspiration with her own design and detail sensibilities … garments that each tell a story- where they originated from, what inspired them and what inspiration comes from them. What Vinka’s collection inspires is a much needed return to boldness in our clothing choices and an appreciation of what fashion, thought-provokingly detailed and designed fashion, can inspire.”

Custom Fabrics

The fabrics used by Vinka in this astounding collection included the finest silks and laces, tulle and velvet, embellished with sequins, crystals and feathers, some costing thousands of dollars a metre. I’m told that Vinka loved the exclusive fabrics from the Swiss house of Jakob Schlaepfer, making many gowns in her Collection from his limited editions.

New Zealand’s First True Fashion Couturier

Vinka was known to go above and beyond when it came to fabrics. As Lucy Hammond, curator of Hawke’s Bay Museums Trust noted: “When Vinka required extra special fabric for a key showpiece gown, she often went beyond the existing supply chain and commissioned customised fabrics. It was these unique gowns that were on display in the Maree de Maru salon, and appeared in private showings and bridal parades, inspiring brides across New Zealand.”

Vinka’s Lasting Influence

With her own fabric importing business she secured exclusive access to overseas manufacturers.

Vinka was most certainly New Zealand’s first true fashion couturier, designing for the likes of Miss New Zealand, opera and stage stars, the wives of parliamentarians and most of New Zealand’s high society. She was very much a hands-on designer.

“The fabric dictates what needs to be done. When I am alone, with the fabric draped over my hand, that’s when I always know just how it should be made,” she explained in an archived interview for the New Zealand Woman’s Weekly.

The Next Generation – Anita Turner-Williams

Vinka is today a more frail version of herself, having suffered a few minor strokes. Her 50-year love affair with New Zealand brides and fashionistas is over. Her legacy, however, lives on in daughter Anita who has taken over the helm of Vinka Bridal, operating the business with the same verve and passion as her mother. Anita is a majestic blend of both her parents – a smart and savvy businesswoman, and a highly talented designer.

Continuing the Vinka Legacy

The much-loved Vinka brand is in good hands; the Queen Street studio a haven for brides who want a gown that’s tailored to suit. The racks are filled with Anita’s heavenly creations while the workroom out back still carries traces of Vinka everywhere. Have a scratch around and you’re bound to discover incredible laces that Vinka imported.

Upholding Tradition and Passion

“Although the market has changed, our policy has remained the same after all these years,” says Anita. “We’ve always been about the gown. It has never been about being rich or famous, but about being extremely passionate for the way women dress and our attention to detail with each and every garment that we make.”

The lady known as the queen of the fashion world of haute couture bridal and evening wear in New Zealand may have abdicated, but her heir to the throne is a very viable contender! ♥